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The first of the five central plazas in Old Havana was the cob-
                                                       blestoned Plaza Vieja where we let our camera shut- ters doing
                  Happy Cubas around the Plaza de Cathedral.
                                                       most of the talking! Not far from the Plaza Vieja is the Plaza de la
                                                       Catedral, home to the Catedral de San Cristóbal, a grand symbol
                                                       of La Habana Vieja. These plazas are flanked with gorgeous 18th
                                                       century Cuban Baroque limestone mansions decorated with em-
                                                       bedded local coral and seashells.

                                                       A few steps from San Cristóbal, on Calle Empedrado is the
                                                       legendary bar, La Bodeguita del Medio. It was small and packed
                                                       with camera toting, mojito swilling tourists -- it would have surly
                                                       annoyed it’s most famous customer Ernest Hemingway. At four
                                                       Cuban bucks a pop the rum, sugar and mint drinks were very
                                                       good, indeed.

                                                       Strolling down the street from the bar is the Ambos Mun- dos
                                                       Hotel, where Hemingway started writing his novel, “For Whom the
                                                       Bell Tolls.” You can hear those church bells tolling all day in Havana.







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