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muscles totally relax and absorb these   patients to go to hell, at least they don’t   usti is the only hotel in the world where
            minerals into the bones. It stimulates   have to pay full price for the privilege.  you can scuba dive in a thermal cave
            the production of endorphins, which is                              system, but as I’ve always been keen
            why you feel so relaxed. It’s like a drug.”   Visitors can also enjoy full immersion   on breathing oxygen that doesn’t come
                                              therapy – a baptism, if you like – in the   from a can, I opt instead for “floatation
             In fact, it’s so much like a drug that the   Lago del Limbo, the crystal clear, 93-de-  therapy” in the lake with Luciano Tanini,
            Italian government subsidizes citizens’   gree lake that stretches out beneath the   who has been exploring these caves
            visits here. So when a doctor tells their   cavern’s cathedral-like arches. Grotta Gi-  since 1980.



                                                                                   Cradling me in his arms, Luciano
                                                                                  stretches and bends my limbs as he
                                                                                  moves me gently through the balmy
                                                                                  water. Swaying like seaweed, entrust-
                                                                                  ing myself to the strong hands of a
                                                                                  stranger, I’m as carefree as flotsam
                                                                                  and jetsam on an infinite ocean.

                                                                                   You might even say that I’m as happy
                                                                                  as a pig in mud…but just what is it
                                                                                  about mud that’s supposed to induce
                                                                                  such euphoria? That’s what I aim to
                                                                                  find out when I travel 28 miles west to
                                                                                  Bagni di Pisa, which places a spe-
                                                                                  cial emphasis on fangotherapy. (It’s
                                                                                  nothing to do with vampires. That’s
                                                                                  spa-speak for detoxifying, anti-in-
                                                                                  flammatory treatments using hot clay
                                                                                  steeped in thermal waters).








                                                                                  Grotta  Giusti’s  64-room  hotel  is  set  within
                                                                                  a 19th century villa in Monsummano Terme,
                                                                                  Tuscany. Copyright Amy Laughinghouse.
                                                                                  Left: A woman tests the warm thermal wa-
                                                                                  ters in the Hammam dei Granduchi at Bagni
                                                                                  di Pisa spa resort in Tuscany. The hammam
                                                                                  is built into an intimate natural grotto. Cour-
                                                                                  tesy Bagni di Pisa, Italian Hospitality Collec-
                                                                                  tion.
                                                                                  Opposite:  Grotta  Giusti  in  Italy’s  Monsum-
                                                                                  mano Terme is the only hotel in the world
                                                                                  offering  diving  in  a  thermal  cave  system.
                                                                                  Courtesy  Grotta  Giusti,  Italian  Hospitality
                                                                                  Collection.









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