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Volcanoes National Park is about three Degrees of Difficulty
hours by car from Kigali. We stayed nearby
at Wilderness Bisate, a luxury resort with Rwanda offers several gorilla trekking
just six individual villas tucked into exotic experiences, ranging from relatively easy
garden settings on the side of an old vol‐ to more challenging. The park issues a
cano near the park. It was one of the best maximum of 96 trekking permits daily, or
places we’ve stayed anywhere in the world. eight visitors, for each of the 12 gorilla
It is expensive, with all-inclusive rates groups. Try to book six months or more in
starting at some $2,400 per person per advance to ensure you secure a permit.
night. We’d saved for this 80th birthday ex‐ The options, from easiest to hardest, and
perience and booked more than six months their approximate costs: one to six hours,
in advance to fit with our other East $1,500 per person; full day, $2,500 to
African adventures. $3,000 per person; and multiple days,
Other lodging options in the region rec‐ $3,000 to $5,000. Park rangers try to match
ommended by the tourism bureau include trekkers with similar fitness levels to en‐
the Kigali Marriott Hotel, 254 rooms; the sure a comfortable pace for everyone.
Retreat by Heaven, a boutique luxury hotel The best times are during the dry sea‐
with 11 rooms and suites near the city cen‐ son, June to September. Prepare physically
ter; and the Radisson Blu Hotel & Conven‐ since the terrain can be steep and muddy,
tion Centre, with 292 rooms, All three hotels with challenges in pushing through vegeta‐
offer free Wi-Fi, airport transfers (some‐ tion, climbing over logs, and struggling up
times for a fee), and concierge services. embankments. If you can, arrive a few
Each hotel can assist with arranging tours days early to acclimate to the high alti‐
and activities in Kigali and beyond. tude, about 8,000 feet. Be prepared for
At Bisate, the forest villas were de‐ sudden weather changes. It can be calm
signed as an homage to Rwandan royalty, and misty in the morning, become hot and
with curving high ceilings seemingly humid, or rain unexpectedly. Use insect re‐
thatched but made with modern materials, pellent.
big windows, and sliding glass doors to the It would be best to have sturdy, water‐
decks to show off the beauty of the foliage proof boots, gaiters, and cheap gardening
and with views down the valley and a dis‐ gloves to protect your hands when climb‐
tant volcano. The suites are almost 1,000 ing and grasping vines or limbs. Hire a
square feet and have a fireplace, large porter for each person. The porters carry
dressing and sitting areas, full bars, and a your backpacks, snacks, or lunch provided
king-size bed with a view toward the deck. by your lodge. They offered carved hiking
The main lodge includes the reception sticks to help us balance during the trek
area, wine cellar, library, spa, and restau‐ and would pull us over some of the most
rant. The staff arranged a dinner for Laura difficult patches.
and me in the wine cellar to celebrate my
For logistical considerations, carry lots
birthday and sang the birthday song in of US Dollars in small denominations for
French (Rwanda is a former French colony).
The menus feature many fresh vegetables tipping in East Africa. Porters are $10 to $15
and fruits from the Bisate garden, sourced and worth it! The main guide is $20 to $30
from local farmers. Bisate offers guests each, and trackers are $15 to $20. The vari‐
ables are the length and difficulty of the
the fun of going with the chef on a local
shopping expedition to select the ingredi‐ trek. Drivers get $5 to $10, depending upon
ents for the evening. the length of the trip.
152 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE WINTER 2025
