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and raced across the roads, then wide before venturing to cross the shallows when
grass fields with a few vehicle tracks, head‐ the crocs were full.
ing for the river. We could see dust clouds Back in camp, we cleaned up and en‐
in the foreground, hanging on and bouncing joyed dinner under the main tent, which,
in our seats. It was the fastest he had with its sides open, offered views of the
driven in our experience. wilds in three directions. The menu features
We arrived just in time as several thou‐ a range of traditional Western dishes (es‐
sand wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles fol‐ pecially breakfast) with some local and re‐
lowed their instincts, going down one side gional touches. The camp provides
of the river, crossing in the shallows, and beverages, including coffee and tea in the
bounding up the other side. We heard thun‐ tents, liquor, and South African wines.
dering hooves, grunts, roars, screeches,
howls in distress and growls. Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda
Safari vehicles from a dozen camps
lined up to watch as crocodiles appeared The next morning, we flew on Auric Air
out of nowhere and attacked the weak, from Serengeti to Kigali, the capital of
young, injured, and laggards. The air Rwanda. The small country has changed
smelled dusty, pungent, and of animal skins considerably for the better since the 1994
and musk. Lions, cheetahs, hyenas, and vul‐ genocide. The airport is clean, and people
tures would likely be on the other side, seem genuinely happy and pleasant. They
waiting their turn in this annual predator- have a well-liked President, and all citizens
and-prey drama. Our guide pointed out volunteer once a month to do something
that zebras seemed to wait for the initial for the good of their country.
carnage to subside with the wildebeests
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