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and raced across the roads, then wide              before venturing to cross the shallows when
           grass fields with a few vehicle tracks, head‐      the crocs were full.
           ing for the river. We could see dust clouds            Back in camp, we cleaned up and en‐
           in the foreground, hanging on and bouncing         joyed dinner under the main tent, which,
           in our seats. It was the fastest he had            with its sides open, offered views of the
           driven in our experience.                          wilds in three directions. The menu features
               We arrived just in time as several thou‐       a range of traditional Western dishes (es‐
           sand wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles fol‐        pecially breakfast) with some local and re‐
           lowed their instincts, going down one side         gional touches. The camp provides
           of the river, crossing in the shallows, and        beverages, including coffee and tea in the
           bounding up the other side. We heard thun‐         tents, liquor, and South African wines.
           dering hooves, grunts, roars, screeches,
           howls in distress and growls.                            Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda
               Safari vehicles from a dozen camps
           lined up to watch as crocodiles appeared               The next morning, we flew on Auric Air
           out of nowhere and attacked the weak,              from Serengeti to Kigali, the capital of
           young, injured, and laggards. The air              Rwanda. The small country has changed
           smelled dusty, pungent, and of animal skins        considerably for the better since the 1994
           and musk. Lions, cheetahs, hyenas, and vul‐        genocide. The airport is clean, and people
           tures would likely be on the other side,           seem genuinely happy and pleasant. They
           waiting their turn in this annual predator-        have a well-liked President, and all citizens
           and-prey drama. Our guide pointed out              volunteer once a month to do something
           that zebras seemed to wait for the initial         for the good of their country.
           carnage to subside with the wildebeests




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