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We started out in Havana, with three crumbling tenements, ration stores and
nights at Posada de Chacon, a wonderful time-worn shadows of Cuba’s political
casa particular (privately owned bed and past. I saw no homeless – and encoun-
breakfast) in the heart of Havana Vieja. tered scores of genial locals, many shop-
For me, the Old City was a bustling, mys- ping at “informal markets,” better known
terious surprise. Its uber colorful street to outsiders as black markets. As artist
life, gleaming ‘50s convertibles, flourish- Henry Aloma told me: “Cuba is joy. We
ing arts scene and chic paladares (pri- live like every day is the last one. Cuba
vately owned restaurants) thrive beside can be anything - but not sad.”
Rene Quintana, 38, is the third
generation to drive this cherried-
out ’51 Buick. “My boss is my 83-
year-old grandfather,” he
proclaims with pride.
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