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We wandered through 19th and 20th century mond Cove, the only hotel on the entire island. The Inn
American and European art, modern and contempo- is housed within Fort McKinley’s former army barracks
rary. There was Gauguin and John Singer Sargent and which date back to the late 19th and 20th centuries
Warhol and a Degas sculpture smack in the middle of and once protected Portland. It was manned during
a town of less than 68,000 residents. The building itself the Spanish-American War in 1898, World War I and
was bright and airy with sun spilled galleries and sky- World War 11. At its’ height, there were 1,000 people
lights everywhere. An iconic Maine sculptor, Bernard housed in both the barracks and private cottages on
Langlais, who died in 1977, sculpted and painted every the island. In 1947, the Army abandoned the place and
bird he ever saw: seagulls, and puffins and a great blue it passed to the Navy, which sold it to private owners in
heron, and each figure was life-sized. 1961. In 1984, new owners purchased it and converted
Eventually, we returned back to our hotel to get ready it to private residences and condos.
for dinner whose restaurant, The Blue Fin, is presided We arrived at the Great Cove Bay Dock where we
over by Chef Tim Pierre Labonte. Chef Tim is from were escorted to the hotel via golf cart, the only form
Maine but left for a few years to work in a restaurant of transportation on the island. Our driver took us up
in Florida, then returned because he missed Maine. the lane, around many bends, up another hill, through
We chose Chef Tim’s tasting menu with paired wines shady forest groves, past a beautiful field which was
which began with baby burrata with balsamic straw- once the Parade Grounds, and finally to a pedestrian
berries and served on grilled lavash, followed by lob- brick building without much character, not surprising
ster popover, Blue Fin’s signature lobster roll. Next was considering it was once a barracks. However, our suite
tasty Atlantic halibut with kelp noodles and after, the was spacious and modern with a huge kitchen, sitting
best octopus I’ve ever eaten, marinated with oregano room and a balcony overlooking the pool.
vinegar and serrano peppers. The final course was a There are only two restaurants on the entire island:
delicious Faroe Island Salmon with smoked trout. Each one inside the hotel and the other a gulf-cart-ride away.
course was delicious, comparable to any fine-dining The island does have a grocery store, but it’s only open
restaurant in New York City. during high season, so if you come off-season, all your
The next morning we went for a run along the water- meals will be in the two restaurants. The locals either
front Esplanade below the Eastern Promenade where go into town once a week to shop or place their orders
you can choose a paved trail or a gravel path which with someone who will not only pick up their items in
parallels it. We passed beaches, kayak and boat rent- Portland but will put all their groceries away once he
als, the largest dog park I’ve ever seen, wild primroses, returns.
a sailing club, and an old narrow gage train sitting on If you walk around the former barracks, there’s not
its track in the middle of nowhere. But the most unex- much to see. But the private cottages are attractive
pected thing was a concrete wall just before the path and so are many of the houses which residents have
veered off to a pond which was covered with graffiti built. It’s a little strange being on an island where the
and in huge letters, WRITE ---WRITE! residents and hotel guests are so separated. The
There are over 4,600 islands off the coast and even island is divided between the public roads – that is,
some islands inland. The owners of the Portland Har- people staying at the Inn -- and all the private roads
bour Hotel have a sister property, The Inn at Diamond where the residents live. It’s a strange set-up because
Cove on Great Diamond Island, and that would be our some of the homes with excellent beach views have
final stop. If you look at a map of Portland and the sur- posted signs warning that you have a 20-minute limit
rounding islands, Great Diamond Island looks exactly to park and look at the beach or you’ll be fined.
like a lobster claw. There’s very little to do on the island except relax.
Great Diamond Island is a 35-minute ferry ride from The hotel has a small swimming pool (and a two-per-
Portland across Casco Bay, a totally secluded place son hot tub) and loungers so you can soak up the sun.
divided between private residences and The Inn at Dia- There are one-speed-only bikes available for guests or

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