Page 150 - WDT MAGAZINE IRELAND ISSUE WINTER 2018

Both Loam and Aniar were closed on our free night
in Galway, but we did dine at McMahon’s first restau-
rant and subject of his cookbook, Cava Bodega, where
the focus is Spanish tapas “with an Irish heart,” afford-
able wines and good times, judging by the lively crowd
there with us on a rainy Monday evening. Among the
small plates not to be missed are the pincho with pork
belly, cucumber and truffle mayo, and the goat cheese
and sweet potato croquettes with saffron aioli.
(Another popular option for inspired farm-to-table
fare with Kiwi flare is Kai Café, helmed by native New
Zealander, chef Jess Murphy, in a cozy Westend for-
mer flower shop.)
Creating Cava Bodega 10 years ago and connect-
ing with purveyors in Ireland and Spain “inspired me
to investigate Irish food,” McMahon said during a
break before a class at his Boutique Cookery School
in Aniar’s kitchen. Now in the midst of a Ph.D. in art
history, writing his second cookbook and hosting
“Food on the Edge,” an annual networking conference
of food industry leaders, McMahon is asking himself,
“Where do we go from here? How do we get the most
food to the most people? How do we build community
around food? Maybe local becomes less important
than diversity.”
Meanwhile, McMahon’s latest venture, Tartare Café
+ Wine Bar, opened in 2017 across from Aniar, remains
true to form, adding biodynamic wines to accompany
seasonal, West Ireland-centric menus for causal
lunches, dinners and brunch. “The Great Hunger has
hung over us for a long time. We viewed food as just
sustenance,” he says. “Only in the last 15 years have
most Irish come to accept food as celebration, as a
pleasure. With that support, I expect the future will be
exciting for both chefs and their customers.”

Galway’s popular Kai restaurant (top) set in
a former florist shop features farm-to-table
seasonal menus. JP McMahon’s first res-
taurant and subject of his first cookbook,
is Cava Bodega (bottom), with a menu of
tapas and small plates.

150 WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2018