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hen friends ask us where they should go in Lon-  to the safer headquarters here dubbed “Number 10 Annexe.”     photo courtesy OF Heather Cowper
                        don—after visiting the usual touristy sites such as   Known as a tough task master, he often endured 18-hour days, keep-
                        Westminster Abbey, Tower of London, Changing   ing his exhausted staff working late hours.  Employing no speech
                        of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, and surveying
         W the city atop The London Eye—my husband Carl       writers, Churchill dictated his own, which inspired not only his fellow
                                                              British citizens but worldwide allies.  He delivered four impassioned
          and I have just the answer.  We frequently visit this popular, historic   wartime speeches from these Cabinet War Rooms.
          city and always recommend the Churchill Museum and  War Rooms,
          which have been open to the public nearly 30 years.   Elizabeth Nel, one of his secretaries, remembered not completing a
                                                              dictation until 4:30 one morning.
          It was here, in these secret underground rooms not far from Bucking-
          ham Palace, where Prime Minister Winston Churchill, a former army   Her boss, she recalls on an audiotape, would pace the room while dic-
          reporter hailing from a distinguished family, safely and successfully   tating, always with a cigar in his mouth--and always requested two
          conducted World War II operations.  And much of the rooms are eerily   carbon copies.  “You must be prepared to go fast and for heavens sake
          left—or at least reconstructed--just as they were during those dark   don’t make any errors,” she remembered of those stressful days.  Not
          days from 1939-1945.  The same desks, wall clocks, telephones, chairs,  seeing much light of day, she and other secretaries were known to use
          typewriters, gas masks, cots, maps.                 sun lamps to avoid vitamin D deficiency.

            The  only  thing  missing  is  the  stuffy  cigar  and  cigarette  smoke    "He could be charming and generous,” one secretary recalled, “but
          and  the  occasional  putrid  smells  from  the  primitive  toilet  fa-  also exasperating, rude, and bad tempered.”  Yet he inspired devotion
          cilities  in  these  cramped  quarters.    It’s  hard  to  imagine  that   among his staff.
          Churchill  and  his  staff—and,  at  times,  his  family—worked,    One displayed sign sums up the work routine:  “There is to be no whis-
          lived,  ate,  and  slept  here.    In  fact,  Churchill  had  relocated  from   tling or unnecessary noise in this passage.”
          the  Prime  Minister’s  nearby  official  home  at  10  Downing  Street



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