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US. Wandering past half-timbered houses, For dinner, I head to the Restaurant Hotel
fountains, secluded squares and tucked- Schranne, a 17th-century building with a
away corners of the old quarter, I can’t typical beer garden in the back. “We only Vintage bus displayed in front of the
Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas store .
help but wonder if time stood still here. have another few days of white aspara-
Opposite: Bird’s eye view of Rothenburg
“Rothenburg is so well preserved because gus season left” hints the owner, Markus ob der Tauber town center
it simply ran out of money after the Thirty Meinold. Franconia is one of the main
Year War and no new buildings like those regions of white asparagus production
in other towns were erected” explains the and as promised, the slightly sweet tast-
night watchman, Hans Georg Baumgartner, ing spargel with a spiced bratwurst and
on his tour. creamy sauce hollandaise is a delight-
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