Page 76 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2020 SPRING EDITION INTERACTIVE

not be beat. He decided to lift the siege interesting a subject of study, and a more
and turned to leave. Lady Carcas, thrilled picturesque situation.”
at defeating him by such a clever ruse, And today this unique, historic, fortified
sounded the trumpets to call him back. city remains a testament to his vision. 1
But he didn’t hear them. His esquire, who
did, reportedly said to him: “Sire, Carcas
te sonne (Carcas is calling you).” This is IF YOU GO:
supposedly how the town got its name!
Instead of flying or driving here from Paris, I
Today, in front of the drawbridge, is a took the train (including the high-speed TGV,
statue of Lady Carcas. (But perhaps there via Nimes and Montpellier); it’s about a 5-hour
should be one of the poor pig!) ride: www.raileurope.com

Following the Treaty of the Pyrenees in You must sample the region’s Cassoulet--a
1659, which ended Carcassonne’s reign as hearty stew of duck, goose, or pork with
a strategic area, the city went downhill. By sausage and white beans (and the Confit au
the beginning of the 18th century houses- Canard); I dined at the excellent restaurant
-and hovels--were built between the Comte Roger.
walls, with residents using materials they
tore down from the fortification. The 5-star Hotel de la Cite’--built within the
walled city on the site of the former 13th-cen-
“That was the beginning of the destruc- tury Bishop’s palace--opened in 1909. www.
tion of Carcassonne,” said my tour guide hoteldelacite.com
as I strolled around on a chilly, rainy day.
Eventually the walled city was condemned I stayed just outside the walled city at the
for demolition. But in 1850 it was saved family-owned Le Domaine d’ Auriac, a historic,
by the passion and perseverance of histo- romantic 24-room, 5-star chateau with two
rian and archeaologist Jean-Pierre Cros- restaurants featuring local cuisine. www.
Mayrevieille and Inspector General of domaine-d-auriac.com
Historical Monuments, Prosper Merimee, Best months to visit: May, June, Sept., Oct.
who pleaded with the French government (nice weather, fewer crowds). And for the
to preserve the historic fortress. popular Festival de Carcassonne in July: www.
festivaldecarcassonne.fr/en/festival
After a massive undertaking, it was
subsequently restored by renowned 19th For more information (click on English ver-
century French Gothic architect and writer sions):
Eugene Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc, who www.carcassonne-tourisme.com
once said of Carcassonne, “I doubt that
there exists anywhere in Europe as com- www.carcassonne.culture.fr
plete and formidable a system of defense www.franceguide.com
of the 6th, 12th and 13th centuries, as
Photos courtesy of Carcassonne Tourisme

76 WDT MAGAZINE SPRING 2017