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sticks on one of the traditional wooden boats called pletnas   Our pletnar was a young blond who must have made young
           that have transported visitors across the lake to the island   girls’ hearts flutter as he propelled us across the lake. Did he
           for centuries. No powerboats here, just the muscle of stand-  ever wish his father and grandfathers had been investment
           ing rowers called pletnars, members of local families granted   bankers instead of pletnars, I asked. He just smiled wistfully
           boating rights generations ago.                     and kept on rowing.





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