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compound’s ruins and restored buildings that house permanent   is a serious tone, “You’re standing on them.”  Then she smiled and
           exhibitions documenting the monks’ remarkably austere lives.   walked on.


            It was a bit creepy to visit areas where each monk lived in silence   A highlight of the tour was a visit to the exotic Viva Sana herb
           in solitary stone dwellings, mostly just mounds of grass now.   shop where the proprietor dressed in the official monk’s garb
           In the middle was a roofless and crumbling small chapel where   served of shots of nasty tasting stuff that’s supposed to be good
           ceremonies preceded burials in a nearby graveyard.  When I   for you. Its other herbal potions for sale carried on the traditions
           asked my guide where exactly the monks were interred, she said   of the monks who operated a pharmacy here in the 16th century.





























































                                Above: The proprietor dressed in the of-
                                ficial monk’s garb served of shots of nasty
                                tasting stuff that’s supposed to be good
                                for you. .








           46   WDT MAGAZINE SPRING 2017
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