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of the most gorgeous estate jewelry   tion about 25 years ago,” Nickell told us.
           you’ve ever seen as well as silver serv-  “It started with the old Creole restau-
           ing pieces, porcelain sculpture and   rants, but now it’s offered throughout
           dinnerware, glassware and antique   the whole city.”
           furnishings that belie this city’s grandest
                                              The classic Creole dishes — creamy
           aspirations over its 300 years.
                                              sauces, fresh seafood and rich desserts
           If you have time for only one such shop,   that define New Orleans’ cuisine — in-
           find Keil’s Antiques at 325 Royal Street.   spire today’s reveillon menus, but each
           A family firm since 1899, Keil’s is literally   restaurant puts its own modern twists
           “a treasure house of antiques” that had   on them.
           my jaw dropping with desire over marble
                                              We made our first foray into this culinary
           mantels, chandeliers, silver mustard
                                              ritual at Tujague’s, the city’s second-
           pots and, especially, some truly beauti-
                                              oldest (after Antoine’s) restaurant that’s   Top: The classic courtyard at the historic
           ful, one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry. You                               Williams’ residence in the French Quarter,
                                              been a locals’ favorite for 150 years. The   one of several historic homes open for
           could make your special someone very
                                              first course offered a choice of oysters   touring. Below: Strolling the streets of the
           happy here.                                                                     French Quarter never gets old.
                                              en brochette, crispy bacon-wrapped
           New Orleans restaurants were about to   Louisiana oysters on garlic crostini,
           make us very happy, too.           topped with creole meuniere sauce;
                                              marinated crab claws salad; or crawfish
           Reveillon dinners have always been
                                              and goat cheese crepes served with a
           luxurious and decadent — feasts after
                                              chardonnay creole cream.
           the fast, after all. The Creole tradition fell
           out of favor among families here in the   The second course was a truly classic
           1900s, partly because these extravagant   NOLA dish, Creole Turtle Soup.
           meals are harder to prepare. “Local res-
                                              The third course offered a choice of
           taurants decided to bring back the tradi-
                                              filet mignon with Yukon gold mashed








































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