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pure white wood pigeon for a blob of cot‐ bour deboarding for a stop at Spike Island
ton fluff until it moved. In Hayfield’s back which was originally a monastic settlement,
yard is Bloom, an all-glass bar and restau‐ then a military fortress, and finally a noto‐
rant with a retractable roof and windows rious prison, The prison is closed, but the
looking over manicured gardens. The place island is open for tours. Here, the Hayfield
is so peaceful you could chill all day, but staff surprised us with a champagne picnic
we were on a mission, so we walked into the lunch. And then, as if we hadn’t eaten
town of Cork, just ten minutes away. enough, dinner was at the manor house’s
Cork is a colorful, prosperous city, and elegant Orchid Restaurant, considered one
to experience it, Hayfield had arranged a of the best in Cork. I chose the Irish monk‐
guided food tour with tastings at the iconic fish, nothing like the dreaded mother-in-law
English Market. At the fish counter, our monkfish we’d heard about earlier.
guide pointed out a photo of a laughing One of the best Irish distillery tours is
Queen Elizabeth. “She’s laughing because the Midleton Distillery Experience where we
she’s just been told about the mother-in- learned everything from production to ag‐
law fish, a monkfish with a large mouth that ing to barrel making, then sampled seven
croaks constantly,” the guide said. different whiskies. While I am not a whiskey
Next, a private boat tour of Cork Har‐ drinker, each brand slid down my throat
like liquid gold, and by the time we arrived
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