Page 168 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SPRING 2021 REDISCOVERING CALIFORNIA'S CENTRAL COAST
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time it was a miniature ship’s bell to add to my bell
            collection. I think riding a motorcycle makes you
            hungry, because we were both starving even
            though we’d eaten less than an hour before. We
            sat outdoors at a picnic table in Fisherman’s Cove
            scarfing down clam chowder.
              From there, it was on to Mar Vista near Anchor
            Bay in Gualala (pronounced Wa-LA-la). A sign in
            the driveway said, “SLOW, CHICKENS AT PLAY.” I
            figured this was more Northern California humor,
            but much to my surprise, there was a henhouse
            with 130 chickens of all colors and varieties. There
            was also an organic garden with dozens of vegeta-
            bles, herbs, and edible flowers. I hopped off the
            back of the motorcycle as Lola, a friendly goat,
            trotted over to check out the bike, undoubtedly
            something she’d never seen before. Following Lola
            was a pygmy goat named Professor Higgins.
              There is nothing better than getting out of mo-
            torcycle gear, especially if you have someone to
            help you. First, the helmet. I couldn’t find the
            buckle, so Jamie did it for me. Then I pulled off the
            gloves so my fingers could breathe. The jacket,
            though mesh, was still heavy. And finally, Jamie
            pulled off my boots so I could wiggle my toes.
              Our total mileage for the day had only been 150
            miles, but we were too tired to even walk down to
            the beach which was just across the street and
            down the path. Nor did we want to get back into
            our gear and get back on the bike to find a restau-
            rant. The good news was our cozy cottage came
            with a kitchen in which was a small wire basket
            which we were to leave outside the door if we
            wanted just-gathered eggs. There was also a bas-
            ket and scissors for picking vegetables and herbs
            from the garden. Dinner, cooked by Jamie, was a
            delicious fresh vegetable omelet. Julia Child
            would have been hard-pressed to make one better.
                   California has a stretch of coastline com-
            pletely isolated with no roads known as the Lost
            Coast. Here, mountains plunge into the sea and
            there are seals and birds everywhere. We’d pre-
            booked a flight-seeing tour, but it was cancelled
            because of aircraft maintenance issues. Oops.
            That was two mishaps in two days. What would be
            next? Actually, the cancellation turned out to be a
            good thing because we never would have other-
            wise discovered the B. Bryan Preserve, an African


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