Page 146 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2023 LISBON EDITION
P. 146

To say the Ervin Museum, a handsome display     to the corridors of power on Capitol Hill in
            of the Democratic senator's long career and his   Washington, D.C.
            role as chairman of the Sentate's Watergate         Pictures were everywhere, as were pens Ervin
            committee, is a major attraction would be a lie.  kept that had been used to sign bills into law.
            It draws few visitors, which is a shame, for it   There were invitations to presidential inaugura-
            brings to life in well-designed space a pivotal pe-  tions and other mementos of a Senate career
            riod in American history as well as some sur-     that lasted from 1954 to 1974. Hanging on the
            prises.                                           wall was a collection of cartoons about Water-
              Visitors might first wonder if they're lost, as  gate, many of which were signed by the cartoon-
            they navigate themselves                                               ists and had been
            through the student li-                                                presented to Ervin.
            brary bookshelves and                                                    There's also the humor-
            look for a librarian. Off to                                           ous side of Watergate –
            one side is a large wooden                                             board games, T-shirts and
            desk and comfortable                                                   even a rare chess set with
            leather chair, seemingly                                               figures.
            out of place. This was the                                               In another room the li-
            desk from Ervin's Senate                                               brary from Ervin's Mor-
            office, placed in front of                                             ganton home has been
            the entrance to the small                                              faithfully rebuilt, includ-
            museum. “Go ahead, have                                                ing furnishings and book
            a seat,” I was told and I                                              shelves, where the titles
            soon found myself leaning                                              remain placed as they
            back in the chair and pick-                                            were when he was alive.
            ing up the vintage tele-                                               (Ervin died in 1985 at age
            phone to say, “Tell Nixon                                              88 and is buried in Mor-
            we need those tapes!”                                                  ganton).
              My wife and I then were                                                It was 50 years ago, on
            led into the Ervin rooms                                               May 17, 1973, at 10:02
            by the head librarian of                                               a.m. that Ervin, then 76,
            the student library. Just                                              wielded the famous gavel
            sign in, no tickets needed.                                            and called the Select
            As we poked around, our                                                Committtee on Presiden-
            guide offered a quick re-                                              tial Campaign Activities,
            fresher course on the                                                  better known as the Wa-
            who's who of Watergate,                                                tergate Committee, to or-
            particularly the key con-                                              der. For weeks the nation
            gressmen involved, including Ervin's Republican   was transfixed by gavel to gavel TV coverage of
            co-chair, Sen. Howard Baker of Tennessee. That    the testimony and by Ervin's adept and witty
            was a needed reminder of a bipartisan alliance    leadership that guided the four Democrats and
            that seems all but impossible today.              three Republican senators.
              The gavel, with its colorful braided handle, had  The Senate established the bipartisan commit-
            been a gift by a band of Cherokee Indians to a    tee in the wake of the break-in at the Democrat-
            man who fancied himself as being just a simple    ice National Headquarters in June 1972. The
            country lawyer, but who became a towering fig-    burglars had been rounded up and charged, but
            ure during a long political career that took him  something wasn't right – federal judge John J.
            from the North Carolina statehouse to the         Sirica felt that there was more to the story than
            bench of that state's supreme court--and finally


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