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the water is the sprawling Rochina favela, Neighborhood Delights
the city's largest slum. Some 100,000 live in
Rochina, a massive, multi-colored mélange Rio has dozens of neighborhoods worth
of structures made from every material visiting to get a feeling for local culture,
available in the region. Residents patch character, and color. Santa Teresa is nes‐
into the local grid for free electricity, don’t tled on a hillside overlooking central Rio.
pay property or other taxes to the govern‐ Known for its colonial charm and bohemian
ment, and are ruled by various drug lords vibe, it attracts artists, musicians, and in‐
who have their own systems of taxation, tellectuals. The narrow, winding, cobble‐
policing, administration, and justice. stone streets are lined with beautifully
For visitors looking to escape the hustle preserved colonial houses, and the atmos‐
and bustle of Rio de Janeiro and enjoy a phere is relaxed and welcoming.
more relaxed atmosphere, several small We visited the Selarón Steps, an iconic
beach towns near the city can serve as a work of art created by Chilean artist Jorge
base for day trips into Rio. Here are two Selarón, showcasing a vibrant mosaic of
options recommended by our guide: tiles. A mix of tourists, artists, photogra‐
Búzios: Located less than two hours north phers, and locals wend their way up and
of Rio, Búzios is a peninsula surrounded by around to get the best angles for pho‐
beautiful beaches. It's a glamorous resort tographing the most interesting (religious,
town, often called the Brazilian Riviera, with humorous, outrageous cartoons). Many get
fashionable bars, restaurants, and quiet to this area from the city center on the
pousadas (guesthouses similar to Paradors Santa Teresa Tram, a historic tramway sys‐
in Spain). tem that has been operating since 1877.
Arraial do Cabo: A few hours' journey In contrast, nearby Lapa is an energetic
northeast of Rio, Arraial do Cabo is known melting pot of cultures famous for its vi‐
for its rustic vibe and laid-back atmosphere. brant nightlife, samba clubs, and live music
Stunning beaches and clear waters surround scene. Our guide said Lapa comes alive at
the town, ideal for snorkeling and diving. night when the samba clubs open and the
200 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2024
