Page 237 - WDT MAGAZINE IRELAND ISSUE WINTER 2018

Hungary’s Parliament building,
completed in 1904, stretches
879 glittering feet along the
Danube, an opulent reminder
of the grandeur of Budapest’s
Austro-Hungarian era.

inexpensive) Budapest tram for a quick ride along the offering fresh fruits and vegetables, cheeses and cured
Pest side of the Danube to the city’s Central Market meats, sausages, spirits, sweets and spices. There
Hall. The massive three-story food hall opened in were miles of hanging red peppers and thousands of
1897 – and was basically rebuilt in the 1990s. Today packets of their progeny: paprika, a Hungarian staple.
its vendors draw locals (and plenty of tourists) offer- I spent way too much time savoring scents of various
ing everything from locally caught fish to fine porcelain varieties of paprika, from mild to membrane-searing
and embroidered linens. pungent. I bought a sweet, smoky packet that still
The basement is where to find fishmongers, butch- perfumes my kitchen.
ers carving game meats and a trove of pickles. Upstairs there are mainly eateries and souvenirs. I
Hungarians do pickles with panache; sample pickled enjoyed fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice and an
onions, gherkins, garlic, peppers, carrots, cabbage, appetizer of pogacsa – a bite-sized buttery bread filled
cauliflower and cucumbers in all shapes and sizes. with a surprise: maybe ground beef, sausage or potato;
The main floor is the busiest – packed with vendors my favorite was cheese-filled pogacsa cooked in a

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