Page 199 - WDT MAGAZINE IRELAND ISSUE WINTER 2018
P. 199

We had no grounds on which to challenge him, so we
                                                              left him at the ticket window.
                                                                When our turn came to step out onto the bridge I
                                                              experienced a different tourist sensation: fright. I was
                                                              lined up behind Kathie, who trailed a line of tourists.
                                                              We stepped out onto the bridge. Once we were dan-
                                                              gling over the gap we sensed the ever-present wind,
                                                              which conspired with the many bodies to make the
                                                              bridge sway. It took all my powers of concentration to
                                                              take one step at a time and not stare down at the Irish
                                                              Sea churning 100 feet beneath the soles of my feet. It
                                                              took probably a minute to cross the 66-foot gap, but
                                                              it felt like an hour, and it took several minutes to catch
                                                              my breath once I was on the other side.
                                                                There isn’t much to do on the islet of Carrick-a-
                                                              Rede; it’s not level and not very large – neither long
                                                              enough nor wide enough to play a decent game of
                                                              soccer. I had the continual feeling I was going to slide
                                                              off the rock and down the sheer cliff into the hostile
                                                              surf and found this sense of danger tantalizing. I
                                                              walked to the cliff edge to study the razorbills soaring
                                                              through the sea mist just over an arm’s length away; I
                                                              leaned over a railing to photograph kittiwakes nesting
                                                              in the cliff face. A gangway clings to the cliffside and
                                                              leads to the water’s edge where kayaks are moored.
                                                              Apparently, some visitors to Carrick-a-Rede can’t
                                                              stomach the return trek over the bridge and are re-
                                                              moved by boat. Fortunately, Kathie and I did not suffer
                                                              that disgrace.
                                                                We stayed atop the crag for a while, then sum-
                                                              moned the courage to return to the main shore.
                                                              Again we queued up in a line of tourists, and this time
                                                              I focused on the person in front of me and forced
                                                              myself not to look down. Vincent didn’t exactly give
                                                              us a hero’s welcome when we got back to the shore. I
                                                              guess he’d seen this show before.
                                                                We got back on the road and about nine miles later
                                                              we reached one of the most fabled sights on Ireland’s
                                                              north coast, the Giant’s Causeway, a curious forma-
                                                              tion of rock pillars jutting skyward on the water’s
                                                              edge. A legend says the columns are the remains of
                                                              a causeway built by the giant, Fionn mac Cumhaill, to
                                                              cross the Irish Sea to Scotland. This legend has legs

                  You have to summon up all your
                  nerve to cross the rope bridge to Car-
                  rick-a-Rede, a craggy islet that juts up
                  from the Irish Sea along the County
                  Antrim coast. Don’t look down.
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