Page 62 - WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE DISCOVERING ENGLAND

Touring Bordeaux

by ROBERT WHITLEY
Photos courtesy Bourdeaux Office of Tourism

ordeaux, arguably the epicenter First, a visitor must decide whether to stay Both hotels are relatively close to the rustic La
of the modern wine universe, in the city and visit the chateaux of Bor- Tupina, one of the most famous restaurants in
wasn't always a hot destination deaux on day trips or take to the country- southwest France. La Tupina has no Michelin
for wine tourism. Unlike the side and bunk at a cozy inn. There are advan- stars, but it is renowned for its traditional cui-
Napa Valley, with its two ma- tages to staying in the city. There is nightlife, sine, typically hearty meat dishes roasted or
B jor roadways that run parallel for one thing, and no shortage of excellent grilled over a wood fire. The wine list at La Tu-
past most of the important wineries, the restaurants. pina is superb. If you only have one night for
Bordeaux region is a vast area dinner in the city of Bordeaux, La
surrounding the port city of Bor- Tupina is the place to go.
deaux along the Gironde, the larg-
est estuary in Europe. Staying in the city is a good idea
when the itinerary calls for flex-
The city itself is a challenge to nav- ibility, as in going south and east of
igate and until recently was fairly the city one day to visit Graves or
drab and uninviting. Saint-Emilion and north and west
another day to take in Pauillac or
In recent years, however, the city Margaux.
of Bordeaux has experienced a
renaissance of sorts, with a new Staying in the countryside has
tram system that makes getting around The finest hotel in the city is The Grand, its own set of advantages, though it cuts down
a breeze, and a stretch of pedestrian-only smack in the center of the city with a tram on the flexibility of your itinerary. Wine lovers
streets in the city center that has become stop right in front. If money is no object, interested in the chateaux of the Medoc region
a magnet for tourists drawn to the area's this is the place to stay. On the other hand, would do well to book a room at Chateau Cor-
trendy restaurants and shops. deillan-Bages, a Relais & Chateaux property in
if you are on a budget, as I am when I travel, Pauillac. For one thing, the kitchen, under the
the nearby Hotel de Normandie is an up-
I was reminded of this by a recent query scale three-star (out of five) property that is direction of Chef Jean-Luc Rocha, has two Mi-
from a reader concerning travel to Bordeaux. chelin stars.
Harvest is already underway in many sec- charming and convenient.
tions of the Bordeaux district, the heavy The Normandie is a mere two blocks from And the location positions you for visits to
scent of fermenting grapes in the air being The Grand and it's just across the street from most of the top first-growth and super second-
an attraction in and of itself. growth chateaux of Bordeaux.
a tram stop. When I feel the need to connect
with the opulence of The Grand, I simply
When I visit Bordeaux, I have my own ap- walk across the plaza and visit over a glass of Fans of white Bordeaux, or Bordeaux blanc and
proach, which I am happy to share. Sauternes, might prefer to take up tem-
wine at The Grand bar.
porary residence in the opposite direction,

62 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014