Page 41 - WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE DISCOVERING ENGLAND

At the time of Carnarvon's death, all of Cai- Before I left, there was one nagging ques- last look at the grandeur of the castle, and
ro was thrown into darkness by a mysteri- tion I had to ask as we walked past the the words of "Downton's" Lord Grantham
ous blackout. And far away at Highclere downstairs bell board, which was used to rushed into my mind.
the lord's favorite dog, a fox terrier named summon servants to the upper rooms. "You see a million bricks that may crum-
Susie, started howling and dropped over I had seen the footmen performing an un- ble, a thousand gutters and pipes that may
dead at the same time his master died. usual practice on "Downton Abbey." block and leak, and stone that will crack in
This has led to stories that the discovery the frost. ... I see my life's work."
of the Tut relics brings a "mummy's curse"
to those who deal with them. MAKING THE TRIP

Today the basement of Highclere Castle is Highclere Castle is open to the public during summer and
devoted to an exhibition on the fifth Lord on selected holidays, but the popularity of "Downton Ab-
Carnarvon's Egyptian expeditions. bey" has made getting tickets difficult. Those wanting to
visit should check with private coach-tour operators, who
As the present countess is first to admit, offer day trips from London. For more information, see
maintaining an estate such as Highclere is www.highclerecastle.co.uk
an expensive proposition. That is why the
house has been thrown open for filming, By train, a visit to Highclere Castle is an easily done day trip
weddings and catered events, while the from London's Paddington Station. Getting off at Newbury,
estate also hosts paying hunting parties. visitors take an eight-mile taxicab ride to the estate. Be
sure to arrange a pickup time for the return to the station
So it's possible for those with the money with your driver. For information on schedules and rail
to enjoy a five-course meal in the famous passes, see www.britrail.com.
dining room, attired in formal wear, of
course, but minus the quick wit of Maggie Newbury, the closest large town to the estate, offers sev-
Smith. eral lodging possibilities:
Long gone are the 24 household servants "Did they really iron the daily newspapers?" Carnarvon Arms hotel (a country inn close to the estate):
listed in a 1924 record book. Today there I asked. www.thecarnarvonarmshotel.com
are far fewer, but the job of butler remains. "Oh, yes, it was quite common," the count- Hilton Newbury Centre (UK): www.hilton.com
It's a job not so far removed from the role ess replied.
played by "Downton's" Carson. But the Travelodge Newbury Tot Hill Hotel: www.travelodge.co.uk
overall divisions of labor are gone. As I left Highclere I walked past grazing For general information: www.visitbritain.com and www.
sheep and under stately Cedars of Leba-
"We're all good at multitasking," the count- non planted hundreds of years ago. One visitingengland.com
ess told me.

Photos courtesy WIKI commons

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