Ah, the French Riviera – a sun-drenched escape for the rich and famous, from Zelda and Scott (Fitzgerald) to Jeff ( Bezos) and Leo (DiCaprio). For us, though, the Riviera is memories of crawling traffic and impossible parking on a very crowded summer day years ago. But this time was different. We took a ship’s shore excursion to two gems in the off-season: Nice and Eze.
Nice is steeped in history, starting with the Greeks who founded it around 350 BC and named it “Nikaia” in honor of Nike, the goddess of victory. Over the centuries, Nice saw it all—Roman rule, medieval feuds, and a tug-of-war between Italy and France until it finally joined the French Republic in the 19th century. Despite its colorful past, the modern Nice is a blend of French elegance and Mediterranean cool, with a laid-back vibe that makes even a casual stroll feel glamorous.
This time around, we had none of the summer chaos. Off-season Nice felt like a different city. We wandered through the Promenade du Paillon, a beautiful park lined with fountains, sculptures, and walkways that stretched across the heart of the city. Along the seafront, elegant Art-Deco buildings stood proudly as if they’d been plucked straight from a painting. Here the famous Promenade des Anglais offers views of the turquoise Mediterranean and beaches dotted with sunbathers. Now, I know the Riviera is famous for topless sunbathers, but the only topless folks I spotted were older men in Speedos. Nice was nice, but it didn’t knock our socks off.
Then we reached Eze, and this little village was a revelation. Perched high on a rocky cliff overlooking the sea, Eze is about as picturesque as you can get. With roots back to the 12th century, it began as a fortified medieval village designed to keep pirates and other marauders at bay. Mary had warned me about the steep climb and endless steps, but with stunning views at every turn, I almost hardly noticed. Plus, there were plenty of viewpoints and quaint shops along the way for “window shopping” (or, as I call it, strategic breathers).
Along the way to the top, narrow cobblestone streets weave between ancient stone buildings, and tiny staircases seem to you deeper and deeper into the village’s nooks. Everywhere we looked, art galleries were displaying vibrant paintings, sculptures, and jewelry that gave the town an artsy, almost bohemian feel. It’s the sort of place where you half expect to find an artist in a beret, painting the scenery in front of him.
But the best was yet to come. At the top of the village lies the Jardin Exotique d’Eze, or Exotic Garden—a place where nature meets art in a breathtaking blend. Built in 1949 by Mayor André Gianton, this garden was founded with the vision of creating an exotic paradise in the village’s highest spot. Perched on the ruins of a medieval castle, it offers some of the most beautiful views on the French Riviera. Today, it’s one of Eze’s most famous attractions, with an entrance fee of around €6, helping to maintain the garden’s extraordinary collection of flora and art.
The garden is an open-air gallery of sculptures by renowned French artist Jean-Philippe Richard, who has created a series of ethereal, feminine figures that harmonize perfectly with their surroundings. His most notable piece, La Femme, stands as a silent guardian over Eze, serene yet powerful. Other works by Richard scattered throughout the garden include sculptures titled Eloa and Isis, each uniquely placed to draw your eye from one stunning view to the next.
The garden’s layout is just as thoughtful as the sculptures within it. Winding paths lead through an impressive array of succulents, cacti, and Mediterranean plants, each carefully selected to thrive in Eze’s dry sunny climate. With sweeping views of the Riviera as a backdrop, the Jardin Exotique d’Eze is a captivating outdoor gallery. Add the panorama of the blue Mediterranean, and the effect is almost otherworldly.
Eze checked every box: history, art, incredible views, and enough charm to make me want to come back for a longer stay, despite the climb. Nice was nice, but Eze? Eze was magical.