One of the most fascinating aspects of travel for us is walking in the footsteps of historic and legendary figures, whether at Jefferson’s Monticello, my Mayflower ancestors’ Plymouth, or Fletcher Christian’s Pitcairn Island.
So it was an unexpected surprise that this voyage includes stops at two famous islands rarely on cruise itineraries: Elba and Saint Helena. Both played significant roles in the life of Napoleon Bonaparte.
A few days ago, our ship docked at Portoferraio on the island of Elba. The port itself is postcard-perfect, with massive ancient battlements overlooking colorful fishing boats and elegant pastel buildings.
Elba, an Italian island in the Tyrrhenian Sea, was Napoleon’s first place of exile in 1814. Following his forced abdication as Emperor of France, he was given sovereignty over Elba. Although his “empire” had shrunk dramatically, he still sought to leave his mark on the island where he spent only 300 days before escaping.
Napoleon had at least two residences on Elba. One was in the port—curiously excluded from our shore excursion. The other, our main destination, was his countryside retreat, Villa Martino.
Departing our tour bus, we climbed a rocky road, where the villa came into view, glimpsed through a tall rusted iron gate topped with equally rusted eagles. The steep, lengthy incline proved challenging for some of our fellow travelers, though our regular uphill neighborhood walks made it manageable for us.
Our first impression of the villa was one of surprise—it was modest and boxy, almost too modest for an emperor in exile. But as we learned, it was intended as a simple retreat, away from the busy port. Still he hired an architect and decorator to fashion interiors in the style of the day with elaborate painted frescos.
The most striking space is the Egyptian Room, a testament to Napoleon’s fascination with ancient Egypt and his desire to commemorate his military campaigns there. The walls are adorned with hieroglyphics, pyramids, and battle scenes, while a large zodiac graces the ceiling.
Another notable space is the Love Knot Room, believed to honor Napoleon’s then wife, Marie Louise of Austria. The ceiling fresco, depicting two doves intertwined by a ribbon, symbolizes their union. This room likely served as a dining area where Napoleon entertained guests.
Interestingly, his wife never visited him on Elba, reportedly because she was having an affair with her guard. Napoleon, in turn, had his own romantic involvements during his time on the island.
The villa also includes smaller private rooms, like Napoleon’s bedroom and a library, offering a sense of his daily life during exile. Although less elaborately decorated, these rooms contain period furnishings, though none were original to Napoleon’s time there. Painting and engravings of his exploits adorned the walls.
As we walked through the villa, our guide shared the somber story of Napoleon’s downfall after his disastrous Russian campaign, where nearly 600,000 French soldiers died. His punishment imposed by other European leaders that gave him title to Elba and a generous stipend. A big mistake on their part — Napoleon now had the the will and treasure to make a come back despite his incredible incompetence. Much like a current felon in American politics.
During his 10 months there, Napoleon wasted no time in shaping Elba, establishing reforms in education, building roads, and organizing a small army.
Our brief visit to Elba captured the rise, fall, and resilience of one of history’s most intriguing figures. In a few weeks this journey will take us to Saint Helena, quite a different tale unfolds.
