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Small boats ferry guests to the beach at Mayakobá. Below: Sleeping in a hammock beats the heat at Cesiak.
ism center in the heart of floated with the current in
Sian Ka’an. The morning’s cool freshwater beneath
glorious sunrise confirmed dense mangroves. Wishing I
the reserve’s Mayan name, had at least one more night,
“Where the Sky was Born.” I headed back to civilization
The coast’s finest natural
attributes are on constant Pockets of Serenity
display here. Glassy green
lagoons reflect white clouds While I was backpacking
billowing in blue skies and around Mexico in the 1980s,
small Maya ruins buried wealthier folks enamored
in mangroves mark canals with the Caribbean coast’s
used by traveling salesmen beauty and seclusion enjoyed
2,000 years past. far more luxurious vacations.
The Duchess of Ferrari, for
Nature guides lead boat example, built a vacation vil-
tours from Cesiak through la on a 50-acre estate beside
the lagoons, pointing out as they examined every vine and flower a pristine Xpu-Ha beach in
a few of the 336 species of birds and edging the water. 1988 (Pablo Escobar supposedly had
103 species of mammals finding refuge a home near Tulum around the same
here. The two British botanists on my Their fascination continued as we left time).
morning tour barely noticed the sky or the boat to check out a small Mayan
the frog snake devouring its breakfast temple, then jumped into a canal and After entertaining a cadre of stylish
66 Wine Dine & Travel Summer 2014

